.This is a very important step so take your time to get it right
To get the alignment right, you will require some measuring tools. I used a B&Q laser (see picture below) which was purchased off eBay a number of years ago. I'm not sure if they are still available or not but almost any Laser with cross hairs should do the trick. I was told the self levelling lasers are not much chop with respect to accuracy. The B&Q is not self levelling but has three thumb screws on its base for fine adjustment. If you don't have a laser you could simply use a big tri-square (to align the fin) and an accurate level to perform the stab and wing socket alignment.
The first thing to check is the stab tube alignment to the fin/rudder. The factory has pre-installed the stab and adjuster sockets into the fuse for you. Future builders kits may not have this job done as I have noted variations that required corrections during my pre-delivery quality checks. There is enough socket material supplied in the builders kit to allow resetting the socket alignment if required.
The B&Q laser was setup on a stable stand approximately one meter behind the model. There's not much adjustment range in the laser thumb screws so look around the shed for suitable items to sit the laser on to get the right height. I used a toolbox and piece of 1/8" lite Ply. Perfect! Make sure anything the laser is sitting on is solid so things don't move whilst taking measurements or making adjustments. The fuse should also be well supported on whatever it's sitting on too. If anything moves you're going to be chasing your tail with alignments. A solid fuse cradle goes a long way to keeping things steady!
Ok, with the fuse secured and the laser sitting place, we're now ready to start checking things. The laser probably has a few settings with respect to the cross hairs. I select the setting that gives a vertical line and horizontal line. Adjust the position of the laser to align the vertical laser with the bevel on the rudder. Next insert the carbon stab tube into the fuse socket. Once the stab tube is inserted, add a couple of inches of masking tape to the ends of the tube facing the laser. This simply makes the laser easier to see. Then adjust the laser to get the horizontal beam onto the masking tape. I usually put the beam on the bottom or top edge of the tube to get a better view of the alignment.
If the stab tube is square to the fin/rudder, we're all good to fit the stabs. If the stab socket alignment is unacceptably out of alignment all is not lost. The fix is quite simple and the builders kit is supplied with enough socket material to be able to do the fix. Make sure you identify which way the socket needs to be adjusted. As you can see in the pictures above, I mark a piece of masking tape with an arrow on each side. Then it's time for a Dremel party! Choose a suitable sanding drum that will fit into the stab socket. The socket is glued to the fuse sides and a horizontal former that spans the fuse in front of the socket. Then start sanding to remove the socket. Note the direction you need to remove material and leave some of the old socket on the top or bottom of the hole as indicated by your arrow marks. Be careful not to move the hole fore or aft of the original location. Once the old socket is removed, dry fit the new one with the stab tube and re-check the alignment. When you're happy glue the new socket in with 30 minute epoxy. Make sure you apply the epoxy to the horizontal former spanning the fuse as well. Feel free to leave the laser on the socket/tube whilst the epoxy cures just to make sure all is correctly positioned. Once cured, the excess socket can be trimmed back flush with the fuse. Put some tape on the fuse around the socket (to protect the paint) and then carefully remove the excess socket with the sanding drum.
Now that your socket is perfectly aligned, test fit the stabs. They should line up nicely with the carbon adjuster rod at the front. If not, a small adjustment to the adjuster position may be needed. Before going any further we MUST set the stab incidence. I use a Robart bar with a Wixey angle gauge for this. The Wixey will get your stabs to within 0.1 degrees of each other. The Allure stabs are independently adjustable (which is an important trimming feature) and as a starting point should be set to +0.2 degrees. With the stabs adjusted, realign the laser to put the horizontal beam onto the trailing edge of the elevators. If you've built your stabs nice and straight the fin and stabs should be spot on. Straight stabs are of ultimate importance.
Ok, now the hard bit, the wing tube alignment...
On the wing fillets you will find indentations for the wing tube socket, wing retention bolt and the front and rear anti-rotation pins. DON'T BELIEVE ANY OF THESE MARKINGS! These marking are for the Composite ARF wings and may not be exactly the same hole centres as your built-up wings. Take the time to either measure your hole positions or make a template. You'll thank me for that tip later! :-) To aid fine adjustment on the wing socket, I first cut the wing socket hole to suit the actual wing tube outside diameter. By doing this, you can dry fit the wings to check alignment and make small adjustments by enlarging the hole to get things right. Most likely you will need to move the hole up or down and even back ond fourth to get the wing panels aligned. Just like with the stabs, we need to accurately set the incidence of the wings. Once again I used the Wixey angle gauge to temporarily set the incidence to +0.5 degrees. Just use some props under the wing or tape to hold things in position. With the wings set you can now turn the laser back on to see how things have lined up. As can be seen from the photos, I didn't have the Ailerons in position for these measurements. With the Wixey lined up on the fin and stab trailing edges, you should be able to see the laser beam on the Aileron cutout capping near the tips. If you've done things right the laser beam should be very even on both wing panels. If not, make small adjustments to the socket hole in the wing fillet as required. Take your time and only remove a little material at a time. I just use something round of suitable diameter with sand paper wrapped around it. Remember, this socket hole will eventually need to be opened out to the socket outside diameter so we have some adjustment (wiggle) room here. When you get the wings parallel with the stabs and aligned with the fillets, then we need to double check the alignment with your calibrated eye. ;-) Seriously, I just give the alignment a quick check by eye to make sure it looks right. I do this from the front of the model and lower my head until the stabs disappear behind the wings. All being good, both stabs should disappear at the same time.
Ok, now that you're happy with the alignment, we can cut the anti-rotation pin holes in the wing fillets. If you look at the pictures you'll see that I used masking tape to assist with this task. With the wings still in the desired incidence position, I marked the middle of the TE and LE on masking tape. At the same time you can mark the extents of the wing panel on the tape. This will help when measuring the hole positions. Do this for both wing panels and then disassemble the wings from the fuse. Place more masking tape in the approximate positions where the anti-rotation pins and wing retention bolts will be. Then with a straight edge placed on the wing fillet, mark a horizontal line joining the centre at the TE/LE. You only need to mark a line on the masking tape. ;-) You now have the centre line of the anti-rotation pins marked. Now simply measure the wing panels to determine the centre of each 8mm anti-rotation pin hole and transfer these measurements to the wing fillet. I have a gadget which is designed for technical drawing to make circles of various diameters. This was in the day of real drafting with pencils. Now I'm showing my age! Anyway, I use this gadget to mark the 8mm holes for the anti-rotation pins. Then use a Dremel and a round file to open the holes out to suit the pins. This results in a centred, round hole. With the anti-rotation pins now pushed into the wings, you should be able to fit the wings back onto the fuse with the pins going into the holes cut in the fillets. That is if your measurements were accurate.... You may need to make small adjustments to the holes on the fillets. Now re-check the incidence and alignment of each wing panel.
The wing retention bolt hole is on the same centre line as the wing tube. This is offset by a few mm from the wing root centre line. Mark the hole centre on the tape and then make a 6mm hole. This can later be used to get the wing socket doubler positioned correctly.
The wing socket doublers are laser cut and supplied with the Allure builders kit. They will be in amongst the Ply parts with the battery tray. To add some extra strength, I laminate some 3oz carbon cloth onto each wing socket doubler. I used proper laminating resin (Epiglass HT9000) with standard hardener to attach the carbon. This stuff takes 24 hours to go off so in the meantime you can open the wing socket hole out to to suit the socket and once again re-check the alignment with the laser.
Once the epoxy has cured on the socket doublers trim off any excess carbon cloth with scissors and tidy things up with sandpaper. Check the doublers slide over the socket without crushing the thin socket. Open the doubler holes if needed.
Because the wing roots are a flush fit on the fuse wing fillets, we'll need to cut the socket to the correct length. This is an easy task. Firstly square up one end of the wing socket and then slide the socket onto the wing tube. Then insert the wing tube/socket into the wing panel with the square end of the socket pushed up against the wing root. You can then attach the wing to the fuse with the excess socket poking out the other side. I used masking tape wrapped around the excess socket to mark where it should be trimmed to. Remember to allow for the width of the cutting tool used. You can even leave a bit of extra socket and then sand it back gradually to get the perfect length socket.
Right, the socket is now cut to the correct length and the socket doublers are all ready to glue in. Apply a small amount of Vaseline to the wing socket inner in each wing panel. We don't want to glue the tube in permanently! Reassemble everything onto the fuse including the doublers. Re-check the alignment again with the laser and if all is good, mix up some 30 minute epoxy. Slide the doublers along the socket to allow application of the epoxy to the surface to be glued. Apply epoxy to the doublers and then slide them up to the fuse sides. Push a 6mm bolt into each doubler and into the wing panel root. This aligns the doubler. Any excess resin that squeezes out can be wiped off afterwards. A little methylated spirits on a cotton bud and paper towel is great for cleaning up excess epoxy. I also wedged some 1/4" x 1/4" balsa between the doublers front and back to ensure they are pushed up against the fuse sides. You don't want too much pressure, just enough to do the job otherwise you'll spread the fuse sides a bit. Now re-check the alignment with the laser and tape or prop things as required to keep everything in the right place while the epoxy cures.
Once the epoxy has cured the wings can then be removed. You may find that a small amount of epoxy has squeezed out onto the wing root. This should be reasonably easy to disengage whilst the epoxy is not fully cured. Any excess on the root rib can be easily sanded off later and on the wing fillet just use some methylated spirit on a rag to remove the excess epoxy. With the fuse on its side, run some more epoxy around the socket/doubler. I use my finger to get a nice small fillet all the way around.
The wing adjusters can now be fitted to the fuse to complete the alignment. I'm using widgets for the rear adjusters and a set of old BJ Craft adjusters on the front anti-rotation pins. Some adjuster mounting plates were made on the CNC out of 3mm aircraft Ply. The widgets were "Blinged" up a bit with some titanium and aluminium hardware. This saved a few grams too. The pictures in the gallery bellow explain the install pretty well. Glue used was 30 minute epoxy.